Gather ye squash blossoms
Toolbox
By GABY CAMACHO The San Francisco Chronicle - Published: July 29, 2008
Berries, cherries and peaches — they're the undeniable stars of the season. But what I really look forward to is squash blossoms.
The delicate, orange-colored, trumpet-shaped flowers are heralded in many cuisines around the world for their subtle, zucchini-like flavor. Here in California, chefs love to put their own twist on this traditional, oft-overlooked ingredient.
I grew up in Mexico eating squash blossoms — called "flor de calabaza" — in soups and quesadillas, although I also loved them in salads, enchiladas and tacos.
Chef David Rosales of San Francisco's Mexico DF features squash blossoms on his menu because, he says, the ingredient is "integral to the cuisine of Mexico City."
Rosales says squash blossoms are among his favorite ingredients and are easy to get. He buys his from the Peach Farm in Esparto (Yolo County), where they are picked at night while the blossoms are open and perfect for stuffing.
His recipe for summer squash blossom filling combines squash blossoms with roasted poblano peppers, corn and onion — a typically Mexican flavor combination. In the accompanying recipe, it's served atop baked Monterey Jack cheese.
Stuffing and deep-frying squash blossoms is also popular in Italian cooking. At Kuleto's in San Francisco, squash blossoms are stuffed with a mixture of ricotta and Parmesan cheeses, fresh basil and shallots, and are then tempura-battered, deep fried, and served on a salad of thinly sliced zucchini in a dish called fiori di zucchini fritti.
Eric Markoff of San Francisco's Town Hall also tempura-fries his squash blossoms, which he stuffs with a mixture of four cheeses and cayenne pepper, and serves over fresh pesto and a tangy tomato vinaigrette — the same recipe he's been using since his days at Postrio.
His signature recipe has become a favorite at Town Hall, and goes onto the menu as soon as the blossoms become available.
Summer squash blossoms have a better flavor than the slightly bitter winter ones. Squash plants produce male and female blossoms. Both types are edible, but the larger males are better for cooking. Squash blossoms, which can be found at farmers' markets and well-stocked supermarkets throughout summer, are high in potassium, vitamins B and K, and beta carotene.
They can be eaten raw or cooked, but are best consumed within 48 hours of purchase. Be sure to remove the stamen and sepals, the leaves attached to the buds, and wash with cool water before using.
Queso Fundido with squash blossoms
Serves 8-10
20 large squash blossoms and 2-3 whole blossoms for garnish
1/2 small white onion, diced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small zucchini, diced
1 ear of corn, kernels removed
1 chile poblano, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced
Kosher salt to taste
2 tablespoons fresh epazote, roughly chopped (optional; see Note)
4 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese
Tortilla chips or warm tortillas
Instructions: Clean the blossoms by gently peeling the petals back and removing the stamen, and also remove the sharp leaves (sepals) attached to the petals. Slice the petals into 1/2-inch thick ribbons.
Using a very wide pan, sweat the onions in the vegetable oil over medium heat until translucent. Add the zucchini, corn, chili and squash blossoms and stir together gently. Season with salt, cover and let cook over medium low heat for about 8 minutes. Remove lid, stir in epazote, if using, and adjust seasoning. If not using immediately, spread of a baking sheet and cool.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place cheese in a 9-by-9-inch square casserole dish or glass pie pan and bake for 15-20 minutes or until cheese is melted and bubbly. Top with squash blossom mixture, garnish with reserved blossoms, and serve with tortilla chips or warm tortillas.
Crispy squash blossoms with vinaigrette
Serves 6
Any leftover vinaigrette can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.
18 large squash blossoms
Canola oil, for frying
The stuffing:
2 cups goat cheese
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup mascarpone cheese
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
The pesto:
2 cups fresh basil leaves
1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
The vinaigrette:
8 Roma tomatoes, cored, halved and roasted
1/4 cup champagne vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
The tempura batter:
2 cups cornstarch
1 cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2-1/2 cups soda water
Instructions: Clean squash blossoms by carefully opening up the petals and removing the stamen, then removing the sharp leaves attached to the petals.
For the stuffing: Put all the stuffing ingredients into a mixer and blend thoroughly. Place mixture into a piping bag and slowly fill the blossoms 3/4 of the way full, then press the petals closed. Set aside.
For the pesto: Combine basil, pine nuts and garlic in food processor and pulse four to five times. Add oil in a slow stream while the food processor is on, making sure to scrape down sides with a rubber spatula. Add Parmesan, salt and pepper and pulse until blended. Set aside.
For the vinaigrette: Put all ingredients for the tomato vinaigrette in a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
To batter and fry: In a bowl, whisk together the batter ingredients — the batter should be runny, but thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Heat the canola oil in a large pot until it registers 350 degrees on a deep-fry thermometer.
Coat the outside of the squash blossoms with batter, hold about an inch over the hot oil and carefully drop in. Squash blossoms should cook for about 1-1/2 to 2 minutes or until crisp. Do not cook too long or the cheese will leak out. When done, remove from oil with a slotted spoon and let rest on cooling racks lined with paper towels.
To serve: Spoon equal parts pesto and vinaigrette on a plate and top with squash blossoms. Serve immediately.
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