Distilling the taste of Vermont
Toolbox
By KENDALL WILD The Rutland Herald - Published: October 28, 2009
Harry Levins, a native of Rutland who once worked for me as a reporter and city editor, was in the Army in Germany during the years of the Cold War, but had time while on leave to visit other parts of Europe. One such location was the region of Normandy in France, where he noticed the industry of apples being turned into a brandy named Calvados.
Levins recently retired after many years with the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, but he knew there were many apple orchards in Vermont and frequently urged me to write something about how the manufacture of Vermont apple brandy could become a year-round industry of profit to Vermont.
He visited here last summer and just recently I got a note from him in St. Louis.
"When I had lunch with Dan Collins (of Castleton) back in August, I mentioned my notion about Vermont apple brandy and the commercial possibilities.
"This week, courtesy of Dan, a UPS truck arrived at my house and dropped off a bottle of — of all things — Vermont Apple Brandy, distilled by Flag Hill Farms (FHF Distilling) in Vershire.
"So there is a Calvados industry in Vermont. But why isn't it setting the world on fire?"
Vershire is over in Orange County, not far from the Connecticut River. I checked with the local state liquor store and found that its apple brandy is indeed in stock. It is not on the shelf with the other brandies but is stored by itself with two or three other Vermont-made liquor products.
The name of the Flag Hill brandy is "Pomme de Vie," which is French for "apple of life." It is 80 proof and is described as:
"Apple brandy hand-crafted in Vershire. This 'pomme de vie' is inspired by the French apple brandy, Calvados. A smooth, clear distillation of the essential flavor and aromas of apples.
"Made with unsprayed applies, it is slowly fermented and barrel aged to make hard cider. Then it is double distilled over an open flame to produce the brandy.
"Serve as an after-dinner drink, après ski, or in any recipe calling for brandy or Calvados."
Flag Hill Farms also produces a liqueur made from pears, also sold in the state liquor stores. On one side of these products is a vodka produced in St. Johnsbury, and on the other side is a maple-based liqueur produced in Saxton's River.
The only special requirement for the distillery in acquiring apples for the brandy process is that the apples should not have been sprayed. But that ought to be simple for orchard owners to organize, so that Vermont could become as familiar as Normandy as a place for the production of apple brandy. It is already noted nationally for its maple syrup, so "Pomme de Vie" could be equally famous.
Levins added a postscript to his note:
"Flag Hill Farm's apple brandy is quite tasty."
Kendall Wild is a retired editor of the Herald.
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